Why won't my starter crank?

The battery and its connections

A starter draws a lot of current. A battery weakened by cold, age or headlights left on may still light the dashboard without having the strength to crank the engine.

Inspect the terminals: a loose clamp or one covered in corrosion blocks current. Clean them with a wire brush, tighten them and try a boost.

Safety systems that block starting

With an automatic, the starter gets no signal unless the shifter is fully in P or N. With a manual, the clutch must be pressed all the way. Firmly reset the shifter to P, or try starting in neutral.

The immobilizer is the other big suspect: if it doesn't recognize the key chip, it blocks starting. A flashing key or padlock light on the dashboard confirms it. Try the spare key.

The starter itself

If the battery is good, the shifter is in P, no immobilizer light shows and you only hear a click, the starter or its solenoid is probably worn.

A starter that works intermittently, especially after a light tap on its housing, is at end of life. It'll need replacing by a mechanic.

The ignition switch and the key

Behind the cylinder where you insert the key sits an electrical switch that sends the start signal. When it's worn, the dashboard can light up normally while nothing happens in the start position, or the car only starts if you turn the key a certain way. Intermittent starting that depends on how you hold the key is a classic sign.

A badly worn key produces similar symptoms: it no longer turns the cylinder all the way. If the problem disappears with the spare key, it's the key. If even a new key turns poorly, it's the cylinder. Either way, an automotive locksmith can make a new key or repair the cylinder without towing, right where the car is parked.

Keep in mind that the ignition switch and cylinder wear faster when the key ring is heavy: every extra key, loyalty card and keychain pulls on the key with each bump in the road. Detaching the car key from the rest of the ring is a simple habit that extends the life of all these parts and can prevent an expensive repair later on.

Winter traps

In very cold weather, the battery delivers less current while the engine, with its thickened oil, demands more. A starter that cranks slowly and then stops is therefore often a sign of a battery at the end of its rope. A block heater plugged in a few hours before you leave makes starting much easier and spares both the battery and the starter.

Snow and salt cause trouble too: corrosion forms on the battery terminals and on the starter connections, especially on a vehicle that sleeps outside. Cleaning the terminals in the fall and testing the battery before the deep cold sets in prevents a lot of no-start mornings.

What to avoid

Don't pile up long start attempts: beyond a few seconds, you drain the battery and overheat the starter. Let it rest about thirty seconds between tries. And don't try to bypass the starter or the immobilizer with wires: it's risky for the vehicle's electronics and for you, and it can turn a simple repair into an expensive one.

If an immobilizer light is flashing, there's no point in boosting the car or replacing the starter: the battery has nothing to do with it. It's the key or its programming that needs checking, and that's exactly the kind of problem an automotive locksmith solves on site.

Who to call

Battery or terminals: roadside assistance or a boost. Starter or solenoid: a mechanic. Unrecognized key, immobilizer light or key that won't turn in the ignition: an automotive locksmith.

At Serrurier Momo, we ask a few questions by phone to see if the problem is really ours. If it's mechanical, we tell you straight rather than travel for nothing.